E-mail comments or questions to feedback@soundstagehifi.com.

Vivid Audio Oval B1 Decade Loudspeakers -- He Bought the Review Pair

To Doug Schneider,

I very much enjoyed your review of the Vivid Audio Oval B1 Decade speakers. Your review was one of the reasons I decided to purchase the speakers, so thanks!

I managed to snag a used pair in red from a chap in Canada. Imagine my surprise when I saw a shipping label indicating they had been shipped to you at one time!

Michael F.
United States

It sounds like you own the same speakers I reviewed! They are great loudspeakers -- I wish I still had them. . . . Doug Schneider

Heaven 11 Billie -- A Safe Bet?

To Doug Schneider,

Good afternoon -- a very well written review of the Heaven 11 Billie.

A couple of questions for you sir: I am totally blind, so ease of use and not having to ask my sighted wife [to help] are important considerations. You mention it is a tube amp. Is replacement an issue? Would you buy a component from a brand-new company?

Thanks, and I find your reviews very helpful.

Kind regards,
United States

Great questions! The Billie is a minimalist design and, partly because of that, very easy to use. Day to day, you’re only going to have to concern yourself with the volume and input-selector controls. As for the volume control, I think it having a flat top will help you -- you’ll be able to feel where it is in the range. The input selector is not flat on top, but since you just have to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, I believe that you’ll easily get the feel for it as well.

The Billie uses two ECC99 tubes in its preamplifier stage. These tubes should last a long time, but even when they wear out, replacement won’t be a problem since they’re commonly available. Furthermore, they’re not enclosed within the Billie’s case -- they’re directly accessible on top -- so popping a new pair in can be done in seconds.

Your final question about purchasing from a new company is trickier. As I alluded to in the article, many new companies go out of business. Obviously, Heaven 11 isn’t immune to that, but I think there are a few things working in the company’s favor that’ll help them stick around. One thing is that the Billie looks like a well-conceived product, which I can’t always say about products from other new companies. Another is that it’s priced at a very reasonable $1450 USD, so if the whole company goes kaput, the risk of buying is lower. I can’t say the same about new companies that bring out products priced north of $10,000 or even $100,000, which happens often. Finally, founder Itai Azerad already has ideas for more products, which indicates he has plans to be in this for the long haul. As a result, I feel confident recommending the Billie. . . . Doug Schneider

The Long or Short Wall for Speakers?

To Diego Estan, 

Thanks for the excellent review of the Dutch & Dutch 8c active loudspeakers. From the review, I learned that your listening room is 15’ x 12’, exactly the same size as my listening room. I had difficulty deciding how to orient my speakers: whether to put them on the 15’ long wall or the 12’ short wall. The 15’ long wall has two windows, one on either end. The 12’ short wall has one big window in the middle (about 5’ wide). My speakers are the Focal Sopra No2s. If putting them on the long wall, the arrangement has to be an equilateral triangle. If on the short wall, the listening position could be a little further from the speakers.

It would be great if you could give me some advice on this.

Best regards,
United States

Thank you for taking the time to read my Dutch & Dutch 8c review. I appreciate the kind words. It’s also nice to hear from a fellow enthusiast who is dealing with a room with the same dimensions as mine. I have been listening in a 15’ x 12’ room, in three different homes, for my entire existence as an audiophile -- some 30 years! I will attempt to give you as thorough an answer as possible.

First, the obvious, if not perhaps lazy, answer: try both the long- and short-wall configurations to see what sounds best to you. Experimentation beats theorizing and conjecture every time. Plus, you may find that it’s the bass performance that will inform your decision more than any other aspect of the sound. Below 200Hz or so, each room will impart its own fingerprint (based on where the speakers are placed within it) on the sound. You may just find that bass performance is much better with one orientation versus the other, and that all other pros and cons are less important. You can also opt to simulate the bass performance of the room with both layouts using Room EQ Wizard (REW) software, which is free. REW has a tool for room simulation where room dimensions and speaker placement can be input to “see” where the bass room modes will lie.

If moving the entire room around for some listening sessions seems too daunting (I understand), here’s my perspective on the advantages of each layout. In a room this size, you can’t have both a very wide and very deep soundstage. Unfortunately, we must choose based on what we covet most. I prioritize soundstage width over depth -- but this is of course a personal choice. With my speakers placed along the long wall, I have good distance to the side walls, and still have a wide 9’ span between the speakers, with the listening chair 9’ from each speaker (the often-recommended equilateral triangle). The fronts of my speakers are about 32” from the wall behind them, and I’d say most of the imaging in my room occurs between 1’ and 3’ behind the speakers. If you opt for the short-wall layout, you can choose to pull the speakers a few feet away from the front wall and experience excellent soundstage depth. I’ve certainly heard very deep soundstages in large rooms with the speakers placed several feet from the front wall, and it is a cool effect, but, in my opinion, chasing this in a 15’ x 12’ room would compromise too much soundstage width. What’s more important to you, width or depth?

Now I’d like to explain some of the other issues to look out for with both short- and long-wall arrangements. Left/right symmetry in a listening room is very important to achieve precise imaging. It looks like in your case, whether you opt for the long or short wall, you’ll have windows on one side only. If you haven’t considered this yet, thick curtains should be on your mind. And on the wall opposite the window(s), think about what you can place along the wall to add a bit of diffusion or absorption to match the curtains on the opposing wall space -- again think left/right symmetry. If you opt for the long wall (like me), because the room is relatively small, your listening chair/couch will no doubt end-up against or close to the rear wall. If you don’t have any absorption directly behind your ears, please consider adding some. I have a high-back recliner covered with a blanket behind my ears. Just to experiment, I once removed the back of my chair, and with less than one foot between the back of my ears and a sheet of painted drywall, my system sounded very bright! If you opt for the short wall, side-wall reflections may become more problematic (because the speakers will be placed closer to the side walls). I would argue in a room this size, at least some absorption (or diffusion) should be applied, and side-wall first-reflection points are good places to start.

If your room is not a dedicated space and room treatment is a no-no, you can at least be reassured by the fact that the fine speakers you have chosen have very good/smooth off-axis response (our measurements of the Sopra No2 confirm that), so the reflected sounds in your room should be quite similar to the direct ones, which our brains tend to prefer when we’re listening to speakers in a room. Best of luck to you. . . . Diego Estan

Separate Subwoofer(s) or Not?

To Doug Schneider,

I have read with interest your reviews on two speakers that I’m considering purchasing for 90% two-channel music listening: Revel Performa3 F206 and GoldenEar Technology Triton One.R.

Here is my quandary: I was also considering adding dual subwoofers (SVS SB-3000) to the Revels. I’ve listened to both speakers at my local dealer and liked what I heard. Obviously, the Tritons went deeper in the bass. My question to you is: How hard is it to blend subwoofers into a room? Or is it more desirable to have the built-in subs? My current room is 15’ x 24’ with a 7’ ceiling. It also has a few detents under stairs, etc. It’s a basement setup.

Thank you for your reply and keep up the informative articles. I, for one, appreciate them very much.

Best regards,
Tag Williamson
United States

I believe that if you can get one or two subwoofers to blend perfectly with the main loudspeakers, you can achieve better overall performance compared to loudspeakers alone, regardless of the speakers’ size or price. One reason is that a great subwoofer can go deeper in the bass with higher output and lower distortion than almost any loudspeaker in the world can. Another reason is that you can optimize the positioning of a separate subwoofer or subwoofers in the room for the best bass performance, and you can optimally place the loudspeakers for the best imaging and overall tonal balance. This isn’t insignificant -- what’s good for bass isn’t always what’s good for the rest of the sound. Finally, for those worried about how cabinet resonances color the sound, woofers are the main culprits in this regard, so having them do most of their work separate from the higher-frequency drivers is probably a good thing.

The big problem is that perfectly blending one or more subwoofers with main speakers isn’t that easy; however, it’s also not impossible and there are more ways to do it today than ever before. One writer who’s had great success with this is Diego Estan, who writes on this site, but has also been writing articles about subwoofers on our SoundStage! Access site. The first article he wrote was about his experience going from one to two subwoofers. The latest one is on subwoofer setup for beginners. On August 1, he’ll have another subwoofer-setup article, focusing more on advanced setup options. I encourage you to read his articles to see if you can get enough advice there to allow you to figure out if integrating a sub with speakers is the way you want to go. . . . Doug Schneider

Incredible Vivid Audio Giya G2 Series 2s

To Doug Schneider,

I thought I’d let you know my decision after our e-mail exchange and your advice online. I ended up with a pair of Vivid Audio Giya G2 Series 2s. They are in a word -- incredible. To my ears, they are the most neutral speakers I’ve heard. Add to that effortlessness and accuracy without sterility, and you have one of the best speakers out there. But you already knew that. :-)

Thanks again for the advice. And happy listening!

Steve B.
United States

Indeed, I did already know that. Great choice! I wished I owned pair. . . . Doug Schneider

Bluesound, NAD, and Paradigm -- Credible?

To Doug Schneider,

The scenario you described in your December, 2018, piece (“NAD’s D 3045: a D 3020 V2 on Steroids?”) outlined my choice exactly. I have an older pair of Paradigm floorstanding speakers (Monitor 7 v6) coupled with a Bluesound Node 2i, but currently routed through a 2007 Harman/Kardon AVR 146 -- the weak link.

The Paradigms have a good sensitivity rating, and many people were posting about the ability of the D 3020 V2 to punch well above its weight class in terms of power, so I thought that this might be the right move (for less $$$). But after calling two reputable local hi-fi shops that carry NAD and asking if this pairing will provide enough power to get me where I want to be, I was told flatly “No.”

So my System One (my only system) will now be the D 3045, Node 2i (mainly streaming Tidal CD and MQA files), and the Paradigm Monitor 7s. Does this seem a credible combo? I’m hoping so.

Thanks for any thoughts you may have, and for writing well.

Guy Saddy

I agree with the retailers -- the D 3020 is great for the money, but it can come up short on power. As for combining the Bluesound Node 2i with the NAD D 3045 and the Paradigm Monitor 7 speakers, you won’t get any argument from me -- it’s a credible combo. . . . Doug Schneider

Has "System One" Stopped?

To Doug Schneider,

It is June 6th and yet no “System One” article. Has this great budget-entry-centric monthly report/article been stopped?

I hope not . . .

Steve Norene
United States

Definitely not! In fact, there’s more equipment here for it than I could’ve previously imagined coming in, including some floorstanding speakers that I’ll be writing about next month, then another turntable, an integrated amplifier, and more speakers in the months that follow. The column is also incredibly popular, so that’s another reason it’s not going away.

The problem, however, is that I have too much to do otherwise to create a feature every month -- other reviews, show reports, producing our YouTube videos, etc. As a result, as I mentioned in one of the earlier “System One” columns, those write-ups will land every month or two -- June 2019 just happens to be one of the “off” months. . . . Doug Schneider

The NAD D 3045 Versus the D 3020 -- and the Problem of Tidal Masters Through Chromecast Audio

To Doug Schneider,

I read your review of the NAD D 3045 and found it very helpful and informative. I have the original D 3020 and am looking to upgrade to the D 3045. I would appreciate it if you could answer a few questions to help me decide before purchasing one. Thank you.

Is the sound quality that much better than D 3020 to justify the cost? I will use it with my KEF Q150 speakers, which are already very good with the D 3020. Will Tidal Masters streaming from the iOS app via Chromecast Audio to the amp enable MQA or did you have to use Roon? How good is the built-in DAC compared to the one in the D 3020?

United States

I found everything about the NAD D 3045 to be better than the D 3020 V2 (I have never heard the original D 3020, but the V2 is supposed to be incrementally better than it) -- more power, more features, and improved sound. As for the latter, to me it sounded cleaner, more detailed, and gutsier than the D 3020 V2. That doesn’t make the D 3020 V2 bad -- it just means that for $300 more (the D 3020 V2 currently retails for $399, while the D 3045 is $699), you get something that is across-the-board better. As a result, I’m confident that if you like your KEFs with the D 3020, you’ll like them even more with the D 3045. They’ll likely sound cleaner and play louder, but I also think you’ll hear more detail and greater dynamics.

Unfortunately, I can’t give you good news about Tidal Masters through the Google Chromecast Audio streamer (which has now been discontinued). In a nutshell, Masters selections, which are MQA files, won’t play in high-resolution using the Tidal app, even though the D 3045 is fully MQA compatible. But that’s not a Chromecast Audio or D 3045 deficiency -- it’s the fault of the app, which will revert back to HiFi from Masters the moment you try to output to any Chromecast-capable device. It works that way for the Android version (that’s what I use), and, from what I’ve read elsewhere, it’s the same for iOS. However, Masters selections transmit perfectly via Chromecast Audio with Roon. . . . Doug Schneider

Yamaha Powered On All the Time?

To Doug Schneider,

I have a Yamaha high-end CD player and I wonder if I can leave it powered-up at all times without any ill effects in the long run? I find that power-up all the time is very beneficial on the performance.

Congrats on your magazine. I like your honest opinion on different matters.

Best regards,
Pierre Provost

Like you, I find many components sound better when they’ve been left on for some time, probably because they reach an optimal operating temperature. As a result, I tend to leave some components powered on for several days at a time to keep them warmed up. Still, I don’t leave them on all the time, for a few of reasons. One reason is that by being powered on all the time, the lifespan of the component will be shortened -- electronics do wear out with use. Another is because I don’t want to have it fail and possibly cause a fire, particularly if I am not around. Finally, it wastes energy. Therefore, as tempting as it is to leave something powered on -- and some people I know do it -- I don’t recommend it for those practical reasons. . . . Doug Schneider

GoldenEar Technology Triton One vs. KEF Blade Two

To Doug Schneider,

I’m a happy owner of GoldenEar Triton One loudspeakers, but I have recently listened to KEF Blade Twos at a dealer. This audition made me interested, but, unfortunately, chances for a home demonstration are not great. I love the Triton Ones’ ability to give a “live” feeling, their full-range sound, and their soundstage. However, the Blade Twos to me had at little more weight and were a little less “hot” in the treble region.

Can you describe the most prominent differences between the two speakers? That would be of great interest to me. My other gear comprises a Gryphon Diablo 300 amp and PS Audio DirectStream DAC and Memory Player.

Thanks for any help.

A very satisfied reader.

Lars Jørgensen

Besides their appearances, by far the biggest difference between the Triton One and the KEF Blade Two is the price. In the United States, the GoldenEar Triton One costs about $5000/pair, the KEF Blade Two about $25,000/pair. The newest GoldenEar, the Triton One.R, which I just reviewed, is around $6000/pair. Even GoldenEar’s most expensive speaker, the Triton Reference, at about $9500/pair, doesn’t come close to what a pair of Blade Twos cost.

Sonically, Blade Twos don’t go deeper in the bass than the Ones, but they do sound more powerful down there, as you’ve found -- they pounded the bass home like there’s no tomorrow in my room. I’d also say that the Blade Twos sounded slightly clearer across the audioband, whether played at low or high volume levels. Finally, although the Blade Twos couldn’t create wider or deeper soundstages in my room than the Triton Ones, References, or One.Rs, the Blade Twos’ images on the stages were a little more focused. I think this is because of the Uni-Q driver array, which pins the tweeter right into the throat of the midrange and makes for a truer point source. I could go on with some other sonic differences, but those are the big ones that pop to mind.

As to the high frequencies, I haven’t found any GoldenEar models to sound “hot” like you mentioned -- certainly no hotter than the Blade Two or other KEF speakers I’ve reviewed. That might have something to do with the way we set the speakers up. I’m not sure.

In sum, let me give you this advice: If spending much more money is not a problem, then a jump to a pair of Blade Twos could really be interesting. Personally, I’d love to own a pair of Blade Twos, though I really think you still must audition them to know if you’d be happy -- don’t take my word for it alone. I know you said auditioning at home would be difficult, but, really, for a purchase this expensive, you have to do this in order to know for sure if it is the right move for you. If you’re not sure about the leap, I’d suggest another course of action -- audition the GoldenEar Triton One.Rs and Triton References. I can confidently say that both are better than the Ones you own now and aren’t nearly as expensive as the KEFs. . . . Doug Schneider

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